Time to go home

It's our last day in Anchorage before heading home tomorrow.  This morning Joe and I poured over all of our pictures, talked about our favorite things, sketched out what our next visit here might look like, and reorgainzed our checked bags so they'll meet the weight restrictions.

And I went back and ticked off our checklist:

Bears - 3, a mom and 2 cubs
Moose - 8-10, one really up close
Caribou - a couple dozen
Dall Sheep - a couple dozen, but really far away
Eagles - 3, 2 bald and 1 golden
Ptarmigans - 4
Whales - a dozen, at least 9 breaches

Glaciers - at least a dozen, 1 really up close
Giant mountains - 1, other mountains - everywhere

The inside of an outhouse - 2

Beers - according to my Untappd app, I've had 155 new beers in the past 30 days and 188 total checkins
Breweries - 14
Additional bars and taphouses - 16

New foods - reindeer sausage (spicy and delicious), elk (lean and rich), Miagi oysters (blech - no offense Mr. Miagi...I just don't like raw oysters), bacon squares (because, bacon)

Totally tourist spots - a lot...and I loved every one of them

This has been a long trip, and Joe and I are worn out, but I would do it all again.  And we probably will.  Thanks for reading!

We did something today we've done before

Slept in.  Drank beer.  Shopped.  Watched the Olympics,  Fun day!

It was made even more fun because I got to hook up with Kiki, a former colleague of mine I haven't seen for a while.  She had come to Alaska to meet up with her parents for a quick vacay.  Lovely to see you, Kiki!!

It's our last day in the interior.  Tomorrow we take the train to Anchorage for one final day of debauchery before heading home.  Wow...what a trip!

I've been thinking about Alaska and how wild it is.  Wild in its nature and life.  Wild in its attitude and humor.  Wild in its opportunity and adventurous spirit.  The jaw-dropping beauty of the natural landscape found amongst the trees, on the riverbanks, in the mossy meadows, marshy ponds, and icy bays surpasses any I've seen in my travels.  The crazy part about that is that my actual travels pale in the light of my possible travels.  Is there more majesty?  Can there possibly be more incredible scenery?  More inspirational panoramas?  I can hardly stand it.  The Alaska I've met reaches out to you joyously in its friendly people.  It surrounds you cozily in its warm hearths and hearts.  It steals along the highway or train track or river then leaps up to surprise you with a glimpse of wildlife or an unfolding Kodak moment. It tempts you with delicious menus, crafted to precisely take advantage of the abundant fresh food choices.  It amazes you with its native artisans and local artistry.  It begs you to come outside and play, and then keeps you there with the rustle of a cool breeze through the spruce and the promise of something new around every ridge.  It stuns you into silence with its enormity, its grandeur, its mere presence.  Thank you, Alaska; I've met my moosey self.

We did something new today

Something we probably should have done a lone time ago...we bought a National Parks System Passport book and got our first stamp at Denali National Park and Preserve

You know, we're so competitive (who, us?), this totally makes sense.  It's a passport booklet that lists every national park, designated historic site, recreational area, national preserve, national monument, etc.  And as you visit those places, you can get a stamp that ticks it off the list.  There are more than 400 sites in the US.  I guess that means we have some work to do. 

At the same time, we joined Alaska Geographic.  Our membership helps add revenue to the parks system, and for every dollar we spend in visitor centers around the country, monies are set aside for parks, monuments, and historic sites, their upkeep and their staffing.  It's an awesome thing.

So next year, as we plan a road trip or vacation in the US, we'll be sure to include a stop at the many choices our great country has preserved just for us.

Oh, we also slept in, drank some beer, shopped, did some porch sitting, and watched the opening ceremony of the Olympics.  it was a good day!

And...dayyum that's a big raven.

I guess everything's bigger in Alaska

Almost poodle-sized.

Addendum to yesterday.  Another hand signal:  waving your hand back and forth like you're fanning the air after someone farts...that means a bird - like an eagle - is in the area.  

And we had a little fun doing the Antler Dance at Toklat Station in Denali yesterday.

Tomorrow is our last day in Denali...not sure what's on the agenda, but I'm sure it will have something to do with wildlife and drinking.

Our Backcountry Adventure

Up and at 'em at 5:00 am (again!).  On the bus at 6 and heading to Denali National Park and Preserve.

This tour was supposed to be about a 12 hour journey, but with all the recent rain, part of the road to the Backcountry Lodge washed out in a mudslide.  Instead, we had about an eight-hour ride into and out of the park...only about 70 of the 92 miles of road.

Wildlife was abundant, our driver/guide was full of great information, and the scenery was amazing.  Here's a gallery of our day (sorry I don't have a fabulous zoom).

Mama moose

Mama moose's ass

Three caribou

Same as reindeer, except they don't fly

A dall sheep (no, I didn't take this picture - all of the sheep we saw were tiny white dots on the hillsides way over our heads)

Bear tracks

Polychrome pass - lots of iron, copper and other ores in these hills

Tundra rose

Possible fireweed

Colors are already changing

Mama grizzly bear

And two cubs

C'mon, cubs!

Denali

It's a big fucking mountain

Quilt mural of Denali in the visitor center

Adult male caribou

Big mama moose

Itty-bitty ground squirrel

Because I'm not a great photographer, and the clouds were a bit on the heavy side today...here's a professional picture of Denali.  Mount Brooks is on the left, but the rest of it is Denali.

Since there's no cell service or telephones or anything up there (in fact, the wilderness is managed very little...) the bus drivers let each other know about upcoming wildlife with hand signals.

Hand held up - as in saying, "hey" means there's a moose around.

Hand held in a "Hook 'em Horns" fashion means there's a caribou nearby.

Moving your index finger in a circle like you're trying to speed something up means Dahl sheep are ahead.

Hand held with fingers curled like a claw indicates a bear.

Forefinger and thumb in the shape of an L means look out for a lynx.

Three fingers held up like a W means there's a wolf ahead.

Gesturing like you're pulling your nose out from your face means there's a fox nearby.

So we did see the big four: bear, caribou, moose, and sheep.  Pretty good day!

Denali

We took the train early EARLY this morning from Fairbanks to Denali, and we're staying in adorable rustic cabins outside the park and (more importantly) outside of the Denali village - which is full of tourist shops, tour buses, and, well, tourists.

We did a little shopping, and then we hit the bars.  Tomorrow, we'll take a 12 hour tour of the park and preserve.  Wildlife, here we come!

Tonight, however, it's time to hit the hay.  But I wanted to quickly post new shit I've learned about Alaskan wildlife.

Five kinds of salmon.  Hold up your hand and follow along.  Your thumb rhymes with Chum (Chum salmon).  This is a stretch, but point at the person next to you with your index finger and threaten to sock them in the eye (Sockeye salmon).  Your middle finger is the tallest/highest - kind of like a king (King salmon).  Your ring finger might have a silver ring on it (Silver salmon).  And your pinkie? Pink salmon.

Baby whales - calves
Baby glaciers - calves (well, sort of)
Baby bears - cubs
Baby foxes - kits
Baby wolves - pups
Baby otters - pups
Baby salmon - alevin, fry, parr & smolt
Baby moose - calves
Baby caribou - calves or fawns
Baby eagles - chick

Lots more to learn tomorrow I'm sure!

Final day in Fairbanks

Today was one of those days where we had some final choices to make about what we wanted to do or see before we leave.  We slept in a bit (I'm still a little under the weather, and Joe's just snoozy) and then headed for the Museum of the North.  The museum is touted as one of the best in Alaska.  It sits in the middle of the University of Alaska's campus, and is chock full of Alaskan history...and a little fun.

The main exhibit divides up the state into sections - each with its own individual fascinating history.  From Russian Alaska and the Japanese invasion of the Aleutians to the giant woolly mammoths and mastodons of the southwest; from the Gold Rush in the interior upwards to the pipeline and the arctic coast - it's a big fucking state!!  And it's an amazing collection of artifacts and history.  

From there we went to the city's other brewery: HooDoo.  The place didn't open until 3pm - we got there at 2:56.  It was like someone rang the dinner bell.  There were people sitting in their cars in the parking lot.  Folks were driving up in twos and threes...everyone was tapping their foot waiting for 3pm.  And I know why!  The beer there was really good, and the atmosphere was spot on for a taproom.

Later, after a pretty darn good Italian dinner, we're back at the hotel and all packed up for our train ride to Denali tomorrow.

Yay!  Denali!

Above the Arctic Circle

Contrary to popular belief, the Arctic Circle isn't a real line you cross (it's not like the Equator, you know).  But we crossed it today.

We took an Arctic Air Adventure.  We flew from Fairbanks to Coldfoot.  Then took a van to Wiseman - a community that has about 13 full time residents.  What a harsh life...but they love it!

The Arctic Circle is at 66 degrees 33 minutes latitude.  Here's the telemetry from the cockpit at the appropriate moment.

Here are some views along the way.

The mighty Yukon River.

The Alaska Pipeline (the bright white) and the Dalton Highway (just below it).

Clouds over Fairbanks.

Coldfoot is really just a service stop...no one actually lives there, so we went up to Wiseman.

Lots of nature around...

You know, I have to say I kind of expected frozen tundra.  Instead, its short growing season is in full swing.  Lush and green...blooming and budding.  Lovely!

Well, mostly.

Tomorrow we're thinking the HooDoo Brewery and the Museum of the North.